India tour with Jules Verne: review - Telegraph.co.uk

Posted: 08 Mar 2017 12:00 AM PST

Telegraph expert rating 8/10

An all-encompassing first-timer's trip round the major sights of the Golden Triangle of Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, with a Toy Train extension trip to Shimla, covered a lot of ground, culture and experiences — from negotiating Delhi traffic and visiting the Taj Mahal to the contrasting chaos of Indian train stations and the sheer stillness of the Himalayan foothills.

Itinerary 8/10

There's no question that experiencing the Taj Mahal (although, in our case, neither at sunrise nor sunset) was the main highlight of an absorbing tour, but Humayun's Tomb, the Birla Temple, the Amber Fort and the Jantar Mantar Observatory aren't far behind, and visits to the sites of both Ghandi's assassination and cremation were particularly moving. Traffic congestion in Delhi (Theresa May was visiting) and the government's decision to withdraw 500- and 1,000-rupee notes from circulation (to counteract "black money" hoarding) caused some timetable changes. Group requests for some "shopping time" were met, disappointingly, with visits to a jewellery workshop and marble factory rather than an Indian market.

Accommodation 8/10

An excellent collection of hotels ranges from heritage properties such as the historic (1903) Maidens in Delhi (simply-furnished huge rooms) and the quirky, family-run Shahpura House in Jaipur with its maze of corridors, to the grand, five-star ITC Mughal in Agra (marble everywhere and glorious gardens) and the excellent Wildflower Hall with its magnificent views of the Himalayas. Built on the site of Lord Kitchener's home close to Shimla, Wildflower Hall was added to our tour as a result of overbooking at the Oberoi Cecil. Short stopovers in Delhi between cities were at the Suryaa, a dated business hotel, which charged for Wi-Fi, as did the ITC Mughal. Others were free.

The grand, five-star ITC Mughal in Agra (marble everywhere and glorious gardens) Credit: Richard Sowersby

Dining 8/10

Buffet breakfasts are included throughout, along with one lunch – en route to Jaipur, in the grounds of the impressive Patan Mahal Palace, following a camel-cart journey through the town. Included dinners featured an exhibition of Indian dancing – and the opportunity to join in – at the open-air rooftop restaurant at the Shahpura House in Jaipur and a superb evening with Sujit Rathore and his family at the Nokha House, also in Jaipur, which included a cooking demonstration by his wife and a discourse about the houses' history by one of the sons, who could have doubled as Lord Ralph from The Fast Show.

Tour manager and guides 6/10

Guide Pratab looked after the 26-member group from Delhi to Jaipur and Agra and back and coped very well with problems regarding currency changes, a missing person at the Taj Mahal and a gridlock situation, when he co-opted several locals to help him clear the traffic after a 30-minute standstill. He wasn't quick enough off the mark in stopping the otherwise-excellent coach driver from using his mobile phone while driving, didn't allow enough time to get to see the Taj Mahal at sunset, and was slow to give information on passing sights outside of his well-researched brief. Tour manager Sam supplied back-up. Shimla extension had a separate, informative guide.

Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of the Winds in Jaipur Credit: Alamy

Transport 7/10

Attentive service and tasty airline food compensated for narrow seating on the Jet Airways flight into and out of Delhi. Coach driver Narinder skilfully negotiated his way through horrendous Indian traffic, unmade-up roads and animals on the highway. Packed express trains offered (included) non-stop snacks and titbits, while the Toy Train from Shimla to Solan was a highlight.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, also known as the "Toy Train", runs between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling in the Indian state of West Bengal Credit: Dave Pattison

Value for money 9/10

A fascinating tour that is very good value for money.

Essentials

A 10-day India's Golden Triangle tour (with Shimla extention) from Jules Verne (020 3553 3722, vjv.com) costs from £1,445, with Shimla an extra £495. This price includes accommodation, some meals and flights.

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