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Eco-lodge To Boost Tourism In Turkana

Turkana Governor Josphat Nanok has commissioned construction of a 40-bed eco-lodge at Lokitoe Angaber in a bid to increase the prospects of the region as a tourism destination.

This site is where international and domestic tourists gathered last year to watch the historic eclipse of the moon.

Speaking during the groundbreaking ceremony in Turkana North Sub-county, Nanok said the lodge is meant to boost the tourism sector in the county as well as create employment for residents.

He said the lodge would ensure tourists to the region do not have to go back to Lodwar Town, the county's headquarters, in search of hospitality facilities.

"The eco-lodge will see to it that our youth get employment and will also increase the bed space for tourists visiting Turkana North," said Nanok.

He added that the county was also building another eco-lodge in Kainuk, Turkana South, in a bid to boost accommodation for tourists and investors who visit the region.

The governor said the eco-lodge would have a conference facility where meetings can be held.

Rare views

"The eco-lodge will have conference centres as well as rare views of the beautiful species of birds in the area," said Nanok.

County Tourism and Culture Executive Committee member Linus Ebenyo said the project was expected to be completed by March, next year, and to have a presidential suite finished to international standards.

Ebenyo pointed out that the community had donated the 50 acres of land where the lodge will be constructed.


Wallowa Lake Lodge Celebrates Its 100th Birthday In Changing Tourism Landscape

A man in Nez Perce regalia plays a handheld drum and sings into a microphone on the wooden deck of an old hotel as an audience quietly listens.

Nez Perce storyteller JR Spencer plays the drum and sings for an audience at the Wallowa Lake Lodge near Joseph, Ore., on July 1, 2023.

Antonio Sierra / OPB

Eight years ago, attorneys for the Wallowa Lake Lodge began taking bets against the survival of their new clients.

Dozens of community members had improbably bought the venerable lakeside hotel, avoiding an auction they feared would lead to a corporate takeover of a treasured piece of Wallowa Lake shoreline. The lawyers may have been willing to help set up the new business, but they weren't confident a bunch of local investors with little hospitality experience could keep the lights on.

James Monteith, the lodge's managing partner, didn't learn about the wager until he recently reminded one of the attorneys that the lodge was celebrating its 100th year.

"'Wow,' he said, 'We had a bet here that you wouldn't make it three years. That you would implode,'" Monteith said.

The lodge is still intact, but what made it fit in with the rest of Wallowa County's independent hotel owners and vendors has put it at odds with a national tourism industry that favors corporate vacation rentals and luxury hotels.

Wallowa County hasn't been completely immune to these trends. Portland vacation rental business Vacasa recently bought its way into Wallowa County. In January, The New York Times published a story listing the county as one of the "most profitable winter vacation rentals" for investors. The primary source was a study done by Vacasa.

Locals who power the tourism industry, meanwhile, are finding it harder to live in the same place they work. Similar issues have arisen in other popular Oregon tourism spots, such as Bend and the North Coast. In a county where 1 in 4 residents is paying more than half their income toward rent, the rising price of housing is a growing concern for the community. When Gov. Tina Kotek visited Wallowa County in May, she spent part of her time talking with local leaders about the pressure vacation homes place on the local housing market.

The owners of the Wallowa Lake Lodge are well aware of that lack of affordability in tourist hotspots across the West for both visitors and residents. Keeping the rates at the lodge reasonable remains one of their top priorities, Monteith said.

Bruce Ham, a shareholder and a member of the company's board of managers, said potential developers have long circled around Wallowa County. And while the Wallowa Lake Lodge looks beyond its centennial, the future of the county's natural beauty — and how much of it is developed for tourists — is still an open question.

An old wooden hotel is bathed in sunlight on a bright morning. A sign celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Wallowa Lake Lodge hangs above the entrance.

The Wallowa Lake Lodge near Joseph, Ore., on July 2, 2023.

Antonio Sierra / OPB

The campaign

Tucked in the far northeast corner of the state, Wallowa County sells itself with its natural beauty. In a county with the Eagle Cap Wilderness and Hells Canyon, Wallowa Lake is its centerpiece. Backdropped by the Wallowa Mountains, the 1,600-acre lake is surrounded by hotels and cabins, one of the most prominent being the Wallowa Lake Lodge.

For longtime residents and visitors, the lodge was as much a community hub as it was a tourist attraction. The basement bar offered a place to grab a beer and local schools would book the hotel for school plays. Even if a local never set foot in the lodge, its presence was a constant on the south end of the lake.

"I think a lot of us took it for granted," Monteith said. "It was always here. It's always gonna be here. And we came very close to losing it to something very different."

After one of the lodge owners died, the hotel was set to be put on the auction block in 2015. Monteith said corporate hotel chains like Hilton and Hyatt sought to buy it. If it didn't go to a hotel company, a housing developer wanted to tear the lodge down and build high-end, lakeside homes.

Not only would Wallowa County lose a local institution, there were concerns that access to the lake could be gated off and overdeveloped.

Monteith was among a small group of locals who rallied to buy the lodge to keep it in community hands. Still, he advised supporters and donors that there was little hope the effort would succeed. They weren't deep pocketed and instead of courting a few wealthy investors, they were looking to find a group of people who were personally invested in the lodge and the lake.

But the small team also had a few factors working in their favor. The sellers liked the idea of maintaining the spirit of the lodge. And they found eager financial backers when they were pitching the idea to local investors, Monteith said.

"I told everybody we were doing this [and] that we're probably not going to succeed," he said. "People would get angry, and they'd say, 'Damn it, take my money. It's going to work.'"

The group managed to raise $300,000 in 10 days, allowing them to make a down payment on the property and cancel the auction. The investors fundraised the rest of the more than $2.7 million purchase price in the following months and Wallowa Lake Lodge LLC, now controlled by more than 100 shareholders, was born.

The new company joined the patchwork of locally owned motels, bed and breakfasts, and rental cabins that define most of the Wallowa County tourism industry. It's a group that regularly talks about the balance between tourism and quality of life.

The Wallowa County ethos

Rob Klavins and Emily Cain have been on both sides of the tourism industry.

The married couple originally came to Wallowa County as visitors. Klavins works for conservation group Oregon Wild and when he first started making trips to the area, it was to work on wolf preservation. They would often stay at a bed and breakfast just outside of Enterprise, the Wallowa County seat and a town about 10 miles north of the lake.

The couple often "sort of joked" with the owners about buying the property, but the jokes became more serious when the owners offered to sell. Without previous experience in hospitality, Klavins and Cain became the owners and operators of Barking Mad Farm several years ago.

"Everybody loves when they're on vacation," Klavins said. "But people that come here for the first time, sometimes it just puts its hooks deep inside you and you just can't leave. And we're those kinds of people."

Klavins leans on the fence as he gazes at furry spotted sow and her piglets grazing below. Cain places a hand on the fence as an Australian Cattle Dog grins at her from beyond the gate.

Barking Mad Farm owners Rob Klavins, left, and Emily Cain talk about their kunekune pigs at their bed and breakfast near Enterprise, Ore., on June 30, 2023.

Antonio Sierra / OPB

The premise behind Barking Mad is that it's both a working farm and a bed and breakfast. Many of the ingredients Cain uses in her breakfasts are sourced from food grown on the farm, whether that's produce in the garden or meat from kunekune pigs that live on the property.

Klavins said the steady flow of tourism dollars generated by places like Barking Mad translates into services like health care, arts and culture, and restaurants.

About 1 million people visit Wallowa County each year, and according to a 2021 report, those tourists spend more than $30 million each year in the county. This is in a county that averages a little more than two people per square mile in an area twice the size of Rhode Island.

Despite the trends in tourism and the economy overall, Wallowa County businesses mostly belong to locals. Klavins noted that the Safeway and Subway in Enterprise are among the only chain businesses in the whole county.

The couple attributed the strength of Wallowa County's local economy to its geography and infrastructure. Only two paved roads cross county lines and are open year round, and there are no commercial airports. In other words, vacationing in Wallowa County takes some work.

"I think that people don't come here unless they have already bought into that ethos of wanting to be part of the community that's here," Cain said. "A big box corporation doesn't really fit that well with that."

Although he and his wife keep sustainability in mind with their work, Klavins said change is inevitable. While some in Wallowa County might be fighting to preserve a certain way of life, he said a lot has already changed since Euro-American settlers first colonized the area 170 years ago.

'The land that we still belong to'

One of the many stories JR Spencer told to a small crowd at the Wallowa Lake Lodge's centennial weekend this month was about a trip to the store.

He was buying garden mix and another customer set Spencer up for the punchline by asking him if he was planting a garden.

"I told him, 'No, I'm buying my land back one bag at a time,'" he said to laughs from the audience. "'Now, I'm keeping the receipt.'"

It's a joke that frequently circulates throughout Indian Country and formed a small part of an hourlong performance that combined stand-up comedy, traditional storytelling, history lecture and concert.

It was a homecoming for Spencer, a member of the Nez Perce Tribe who usually performs on cruise ships on the Columbia and Snake rivers. While he lives on the Nez Perce Reservation in Idaho, Wallowa County belonged to the walwama band of Nez Perce until the U.S. Army forced them out in 1877.

Before his performance, Spencer said the tribe worried when the Wallowa Lake Lodge went up for sale.

"We were really afraid because we have a lot of natural resources here that today we still use," he said. "There are still plants. There are still foods and medicines here in this area, just a stone's throw away from where we're sitting now, that potentially could have been obliterated if a large corporation came in and expanded operations."

Monteith said conservation and building relationships with the tribe were a motivating factor for many investors. Coming to an agreement with the tribe on lakefront conservation easements was one of the first deals the new owners made after buying the property.

The Nez Perce tribal government is making an effort to reclaim its land in Wallowa County and conserve the natural resources that have been a part of Nez Perce life since time immemorial.

Aaron Miles Sr., a natural resources manager for the Nez Perce tribal government, said the tribe has bought property across the county over the past few decades. Much of that land, including the lodge's easement, has been around the lake, where the tribe is looking to preserve plant life and restore sockeye salmon to the lake.

But the tribe has also looked beyond the lake's immediate vicinity. In the early 1990s, the tribe acquired the valley where Chief Joseph was born, a property in the northeast corner of the county they refer to as the Precious Lands. More recently, the tribe bought a 77-acre ranch near the town of Joseph that could be used for housing or offices one day.

"It's not just from an ecological or from a restoration perspective, but it's our way as human beings to be able to reconnect to the land that we still belong to," he said.

The lodge's relationship with the Nez Perce remains a point of pride for the local owners as they begin to look past the centennial. Miles said the new owners of the lodge have made it easier to conserve by keeping much of its lakefront property undeveloped.

The lodge is changing, even as parts of the lake are preserved. Staff want to keep it relevant.

A group of nine people pose for a photo on the back deck of the Wallowa Lake Lodge.

Shareholders and friends of the Wallowa Lake Lodge pose for a photo in front of the lodge's back deck near Joseph, Ore., on July 1, 2023. The group includes general manager Madeline Lau, far left, managing partner James Monteith, center, and board of managers member Bruce Ham, top left.

Antonio Sierra / OPB

Day-to-day activities are overseen by general manager Madeline Lau, who worked as an interpretive park ranger at Wallowa Lake State Park before she was hired at the lodge. She came to the lodge with no business experience, but she knew the hotel was underutilized compared to its glory years.

"The analogy that I use a lot is that it was like an heirloom," she said. "People appreciated it, they treasured it, they wanted it to stick around, but they weren't using it."

The new management has brought more programming to the lodge and an effort to book more events like weddings during the winter months. Ideas for future projects include reviving the basement bar or adding a small meeting space for corporate retreats.

Still, a massive expansion is not in the works, especially since the conservation easement intentionally limits the lodge's footprint. As much as the Wallowa Lake Lodge is in the hotel business, Monteith said it's in the conservation business as well.

"We're trying to be a business with those kinds of roots," he said. "And it's a much more fun way to practice business."

Correction: The story originally misstated the size of Wallowa Lake. It has an area of 1,600 acres. OPB regrets the error.


How To Visit LeConte Lodge In Great Smoky Mountains National Park

This article originally appeared on Outside

At 6,593 feet, Mount LeConte is the third-tallest peak in the park and home to one of the most unique backcountry accommodations in the National Park System: LeConte Lodge. This remote lodge, built in 1926, is located near the mountain's summit. The compound consists of seven log cabins and three lodges with individual bedrooms and a communal dining room.

LeConte Lodge on Mt. Le Conte in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. (Photo: Courtesy LeConte Lodge)

Routes to LeConte Lodge

There are half a dozen trails leading to LeConte Lodge and the summit of Mount LeConte. While ambitious hikers could tackle most of the routes in a single day, overnighting at LeConte Lodge, if you can manage it, is an experience you won't want to miss when summiting this peak.

Grotto Falls on the Trillium Gap Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park (Photo: Getty Images)

Of the six trails that lead to the lodge, Alum Cave is the shortest but steepest at 5 miles one way and almost 3,000 feet in elevation gain. For those looking for a long route, Brushy Mountain clocks in at 9.1 miles one way. The most popular route, however, tends to be Trillium Gap at 6.7 miles. It's considered the easiest of the six trails and it also has the bonus that hikers will likely encounter the lodge's famous llama supply train on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays along the trail. Vehicles can't access LeConte Lodge, so food and other supplies for lodge guests must be packed in. Llamas have the least impact on the landscape, so they help deliver the goods. See the detailed trail map to LeConte Lodge.

Staying at LeConte Lodge

Cabin deck with a rocking chair and swing at LeConte Lodge (Photo: Getty Images)

Once you arrive at the lodge, enjoy the solitude of the surrounding area. Water and pack lunches are available here for day hikers, along with merchandise from the camp store.

If you have advance reservations to stay at the lodge, enter the quaint dining room for a hearty dinner consisting of beef and gravy, mashed potatoes, green beans, stewed apples, and dessert. Breakfast the next morning is scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, biscuits, pancakes and grits. Lunch is provided in the dining room or to-go if you are staying more than one night. While the lodge covers meals, guests carry all their other clothing and gear with them up the mountain: It's the backpacking version of glamping.

Story continues

Take in the views from a rocking chair on the deck, go for a hike, or play board games with your fellow guests. When it's time for bed, you'll bunk down under the glow of kerosene lamps since there's no electricity at the lodge. Linens are provided, and all cabins and lodge rooms have propane heaters to keep you warm on chilly mountain nights. There are no showers at the lodge, but there are flush toilets in an adjacent privy building.

Perhaps the best reason to choose to stay at LeConte Lodge rather than summiting and descending from Mount LeConte as a day hike is that you'll be perfectly positioned to watch the sunrise from Myrtle Point. This spot is where the lodge's builder, Jack Huff, married his wife, Pauline, and it is a stunning place to watch the sun come up and bathe the Smokies in golden light.

Sunrise from Myrtle Point on Mt LeConte (Photo: Getty Images)

Reservations for LeConte Lodge

This incredible backcountry experience is definitely no secret. Reservations are coveted and hard to come by. In early August 2022, the lodge opened a lottery for the 2023 season, and then closed it in late September. In the interim, people could fill out reservation requests for their desired dates. On Oct. 3, these written requests were processed simultaneously with phone-call requests. Usually, all dates are booked through this process, but occasionally certain dates don't get filled, and there may also be cancellations. The lodge has a waitlist form that you can fill out, specifying three dates you'd like to be waitlisted for. You can also call the office at 865-429-5704 to see if any additional dates are available for reservation.

Now you know: Mark your calendars each year to submit requests in August and September. If you don't get one in October, you can always watch and hope for cancellations.

While the process of obtaining a reservation can be frustrating, it's well worth it if you do get the chance to experience an overnight stay at LeConte Lodge. Find more information at www.Lecontelodge.Com/reservations/.

Whether or not you can snag a stay, you can visit the lodge. Its office is the hub of activities on the mountain. Visitors at the lodge are offered numerous forms of non-electronic entertainment, and many day hikers use the office as a resting place before trekking back down the mountain. Day hikers may purchase food and other items at the camp store.

This story was first published in Outside's sister brand National Park Trips, where Mikaela Ruland is Content Director. In addition to eight websites, each one dedicated to a national park, National Park Trips publishes four magazines a year, providing expert travel service on Grand Canyon National Park, Colorado's national parks, Yellowstone National Park, and Yosemite National Park. National Park Trips also provide free trip planners for many parks.

The author, Mikaela Ruland, with her husband, Topher Yanagihara, on a backpacking trip to Wyoming. (Photo: Courtesy Mikaela Ruland)

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